When we started off in January to see parts of the world that would be new to us and go off the beaten track. Elddis had given us a brand-new Encore 250 and we were so pleased that they had improved the 2020 version on the already great one we had taken to Spain in 2016. As they say it is all the little things I will be doing a full review of the van later!
Our plan was to head for Turkey then tour around for 2 months move into Georgia and on to Azerbaijan returning through Armenia taking another 2 months or so to do this, and then head back to France for Karen’s brothers birthday at the end of August. What could possibly go wrong?
Well after a relatively simple journey through France, Switzerland, Italy, and Greece we made it here to Turkey on the 7th of March. Though we knew that the Coronavirus was an issue in Italy and Greece had a few cases we thought we had dodged a bullet as there were no cases in Turkey compared to Italy 5,883, Greece 66, UK 209. We spent the following week drifting down to Antalya where we had arranged to meet some friends and play golf on the 15th March and suddenly the world changed, chatting to them at the airport Gatwick as they were boarding the plane EasyJet said that they were no longer taking UK citizens to Turkey, so we were on our own. The Hotel and golf were paid for, so we stayed the week along with a small group of other guests. In that week Turkey started going into lockdown Bars and Shops closed on the 17th and Hotels had to close by the 22nd March.
Now we needed somewhere to stay and be safe fast. Luckily nearby there is a campsite called Sundance and it was still open. Friends of ours had arrived and booked us in. On the 21st March we arrived at what has become our home for the past 6 weeks and for the foreseeable future. By the Monday the borders had closed, and you needed a permit to drive around Turkey. Suddenly we were stranded, on this date Turkey had 947 cases still we felt not much to worry about, toady as I write this the latest published total is 124,375. So in six weeks a transformed world for all of us. We through the magic of the internet are in touch with our families and friends back home nand understand their and you our readers, lockdown is harsh and for you reading our blogs over the past weeks it will seem like we are having a great time. So, what is it like? Lockdown in Turkey? How do we social distance? What do we do all day? Is it just one great holiday in the sun?
What is it really like stranded in Turkey?
To get straight to the point I think not too different to you guys, but with a big household. When we arrived, there were only 6 of us, 2 Irish, 2 English, 1 French and 1 US. We knew the other English and Irish couple as we had meet on our 2016 trip and with the closing of Turkey, we agreed to stick this out together, and made friends with the other. Sundance is a rustic place set in a forest by the sea, idyllic does come to mind being honest, and there are approx. 12 locals living and working on the site. We were moved to the other end of the camp and had to stay away from the staff. After two weeks we were a family and had been on site with no symptoms. We shared three toilets and three showers. We had divided them up into one per couple. So we felt we had it nailed and we could move soon and continue our adventures soon.
Then Turkey increased the severity of their lockdown children must say at home 24 hours a day and there were to be curfews. Suddenly 6 more vans showed up and the site allowed them to stay, suddenly our social distancing was gone and we were nervous and slightly afraid. We had been joined by 11 Germans including 3 children, 2 Austrians and 2 Belgians, it took us a day or so to come to terms with it and realising that they were desperate as we were for somewhere safe to stay as we were, for the most part were wild camping with little interaction with others so the odds were very good they were not a danger to us our anyone else. We followed the best process of social distancing we could and got on with it. Now 4 weeks later the site is a single household! Like you we are in lockdown not quite as restrictive as what we see happening in the UK and Ireland. So what is it like?
Shopping is a weekly pastime and as to get fresh food it you must go to the market in the local town this was on a Saturday suddenly with 2 hours’ notice the Turkish government announce a 2-day curfew over the weekend. So not much food that weekend. But on the Monday, we could drive to the next town 20Km away and their market is much bigger now you must wear face masks which are provided free, and have your temperature taken before you enter. Social distancing is difficult and is your responsibility. The food available is fresh and plentiful, the fish has been wonderful. For meat we go to the butchers again good quality especially lamb, but what I would give for a bacon sandwich or a pork chop! There are supermarkets but they are small and do not have a large selection. But they do sell booze thank God, but it is highly taxed here in Turkey. So all in all the food situation is very good and there have been no shortages of loo roll!
Sundance camp is approx. 10 acres and next door to it is a beach and a forest of about 200 acres so plenty of room, we are not allowed on the beach or forest on the curfew days these are essentially any holiday days and the weekends. So we have had one 4 day curfew and this weekend is a three day. The local village has moved their market day to Tuesday so we can cycle to it.
We are now a very extended family and have barbeques and arrange joint activities.
Some of which are,
Putting Boules (using a putter to see who can get golf balls closest to a stone), Boules, Hoop the Wine Bottle, Pilates, Ballet classes, Yoga, Cards (lots of variations), Table Tennis and so on.
Then some of us myself included have taken up running, with the encouragement of others can now run 5km with a PB of 34 minutes and over 6 kilos lighter than when we departed the UK.
Another activity available is working on the site farm which only one or two of us have taken to, I find it quite therapeutic.
The pace is slow and for many of us the wildlife and the change of season has been enthralling to witness. Wildflowers with bees seemingly touching each one every moment is amazing to see. Seeing tortoises, dolphins, all sorts of birds, not to mention the snakes is all new. Being on a farm with lots of Chickens and being woken at 5.30 by the cock crowing is new, believe it or not after 6 weeks you can sleep through it.
Then there are the 6 camp dogs and 5 dogs owned by the other campers.
Yesterday for the first time in my life a saw a full swarm of bees arrive 1000’s of these creatures arriving all at once and setting up home in one of the trees the noise was amazing.
As you can see life here is different to being back home but also the same, as we can’t leave and we are 3600 Km away from friends and family.
Looking at some Facebook motorhome groups I see people being criticised for still being abroad. I find this harsh as though many people travel for short periods, some of us go for longer on this adventure we were looking at a year. Our home is rented out and so if we were to return, we would still need to live in our motorhome. Also, to get back to Britain would require us to cross many land borders with lots of restrictions and quarantining as we move. This not practical and as some Embassies don’t understand that some people didn’t fly here, so getting information on how to cross back into let us say Greece, and what would be required is still unavailable to us. But we watch the news and follow what is happening in each country and as each one loosens it restrictions, we plan our next move. We hope that we can go to Greece and stay there for while and slowly as this terrible pandemic eases head back home. Karen normally writes the blogs but this week and next you get me. Hope it is not too dull but sometimes it is my turn and this is mood I am in! Please forgive me.
Thank You’s
But we are so grateful to many people for being so supportive and want to give shout outs to them for their helpfulness and support.
Elddis: Yes, you know we would say that, but they have been incredibly supportive and not panicking that their van is stuck in Turkey. But also, for building it so well, when we travel, we eat out a lot but having an oven, grill large fridge really works when you are stationary. Plus, the quality of the build is exemplary.
Big Cat Travel Insurance: Some of the people we are travelling with have had their policies cancelled as the FCO advice is not to travel anywhere. When we contacted Big Cat, Christopher came back virtually instantly to confirm the policy would still cover us and as we had bought it and left before the virus struck, we were covered for it as well. So top marks to them as well.
Vodafone: Now we are stranded in Turkey to have the means to speak with your family and friends is vital. Our tariff includes voice and data here in Turkey, but after an amount of time Vodafone could cut us off. Upon contacting them they assured that one they would not cut us off and they would give us unlimited data as well to ensure we could keep in touch with home.
Sundance Campsite: These guys have taken in a host of lost motorhome people and given them a home without question at a fair price. The location is as I have said before idyllic, beach, forest but well serviced. When we can make the journey as originally planned we will be back and if visiting Turkey this is a lovely spot. Facebook
The Irish Embassy in Turkey: When we were most under pressure to find answers on what we could and should do. These guys were great they have kept us informed and will call you back to make sure that you are OK. Plus, if you ask a question you will get a clear answer, thanks guys. Also on Facebook
The people of Turkey: While stranded here many many people have walked up to us, given us their phone numbers and said ‘If you have any problems call, I will help’ Local people here have gone out of their way to make us feel welcome and feel protected. Thank you all.
For those that Phone, WhatsApp, text, and email. For the happy messages and sad, keeping us in the loop sharing your stories and making us laugh. Thanks, keep them coming. Love you all and miss you.
Marcella says
A really interesting read. Thank you. Glad to hear how well you are doing and that you are managing well in your new, big, enforced family situation.
Jason Buckley says
Great post David.
It’s fascinating to see what lock-down life is like over there, and to read your personal perspective on it. I suspect you’ll look back on these posts from the distant future and be glad you wrote them too, to remind you of yourself in a world since gone.
You’ve my utmost respect for nailing that C25K and losing 6Kg. I very much understand your motivations behind doing it, but I also understand the mental challenge it presents, not to mention the aches! I very much hope you keep going fella. Having run fairly well in my 20s and then given up, it took 20 years for me to start again. I’ve cocked up plenty of things in life, but the one regret I really have is that: giving up. It was very hard for me to start again. Being blunt I felt old, fat and slow! Over the past couple of years I’ve re-adjusted my mind to accept the real challenge isn’t to run a fast 5K or marathon, it’s to keep going. Keep going, for years, to stay as healthy and fit for as much of my remaining life as I can. I use the idea of running more quickly or further to motivate myself of course, but those aren’t the real, true goal.
When Ju and I made the call to head back to the UK from Spain we’d no idea of the scale of this thing, of how long we might be in lock-down or how long parents would need to self-isolate. My brother-in-law was delivering food to my parents, despite the fact he was working full time. We made no consideration of the fact he might have to self-isolate and be unable to help them, or that we ourselves might need access to an ICU bed, ideally in an English-speaking environment (we’re still hopeful about the latter, but who knows?). We were on an aire, and made no consideration of the idea we might be stuck inside the van in Spain for months on end, unable to even go outside (I imagine my sanity wouldn’t have survived intact). It’s only with the benefit of hindsight we did the right thing for us at the time, but we only had two borders to cross and four days of driving to do, and aires were generally still open and busy, and even that felt like a real challenge.
Looking at your scenario from the outside, my vicarious fear is someone on-site picks up the virus while out getting supplies and unwittingly brings it back. Does the group have a plan for how to handle this situation (will it be possible for a family to self-isolate inside their van for 14 days? If not, can they agree to stay in a small area around their van)? If possible, and if you haven’t already, it **might** be worth talking this through as a group so the place doesn’t descend into panic/fear if someone starts coughing? With any luck you’d never need to enact any plan you agree.
Cheers, stay strong and keep on running mate, Jay
David Nolan says
Jason,
You are so right the world changed faster that anyone could believe and now the new ‘normal’ is slowly becoming clearer.
Our plans did not foresee this and we will adjust as we can. First a move back to the EU and then decide on do we stay put or move on if allowed. If so where too? We have a few weeks before the Turkish government will give us a picture of their plans and we will watch Greece and other countries closely.
With regards one of us bringing the virus into camp, this has always been a worry. But the site has bungalows and we could use these if needed. Hopefully this will not be case.
The running has not become a love affair for me but I enjoy the feeling of being lighter and hope that will drive me on.
We are glad to see the both of you and the family are still well log may it last.
Jason Buckley says
Hi David
Starting running is a tough, tough job fella! Respect for what you’ve already done mate. I found it much easier with a goal in mind: a target race a few months away works well for me (not so much at the moment – I’m just ticking over).
I guess you’re thinking of a move back to the EU for visa/insurance etc reasons? I think I’d be thinking the same. It’s a long old drive up through Bulgaria/Romania as I recall, ideally ferries would be back on to Ancona, assuming you opted to head north?
Anyway, you both look/sound like you’re in a good state of mind, very important at times like this.
Looking forward to your next blog mate, Jay
maggie bevis says
Thanks for your super description of how life is for you. It made an interesting read. If lock down had happened two weeks later, we might have been sitting in Greece, as that’s where we’d been hoping to be for Easter. We’d been looking forward to it for a year as cancer treatment for Pete started last March and the idea of being back with friends in the Peloponnese kept us both going through a different year. We became conversant with the art of avoiding pubs and busy places, keeping away from people and carrying handgel so we had lots of practice for the new norm. Like you, we are closely watching what is happening with borders and Greek friends are updating us regularly. Stay safe and thanks for the post.
Janice says
What a great Blog David. Think we all know your life in Turkey is far from ideal but from what you describe it is so much better than here. To have your “extended famfamily” on-site must make lockdown just that little but easier to tolerate. You certainly seem to be spending your time in some great activities. Your new found passion for running is very impressive
I have just seen that our hospital deaths are down to 228 in the last 24 hours which is still very, very sad but we are now past the peak and definately on the downward trend so we are hoping and praying that in the coming months we will at least be able to see the family.
Take good care of each other. Looking forward to your next update
Gareth Parry says
Another interesting read, many thanks for sharing!
Natasha (LifeBeyondBricks) says
What a great read. I like seeing stories like this to come out of this situation where people are coming together. So glad you are both safe and well. Whilst I appreciate the situation must have been extremely worrying, it’s also an interesting twist on your travels because they didn’t come to a stop but instead took a different turn and will still be memorable for good times.
Hazel Clarke says
6/5/2020
Just read your fascinating story admire you all very much . Thankfully you have been supported by embassies, insurance companies and phone companies plus its so wonderful to hear about the local folk and their support just what you need in times like these. We have been to Turkey many times as it’s a fantastic country and there’s always something new to visit. Your original trip sounded amazing would love to have the courage to do it! We have a half share in a camper van however have yet to take a trip out in her. Like you both we love Spain and have a house inland from Dénia. We have a lovely old dog (17 yrs old) we wanted to see more of Spain on the train but they do not allow dogs so thought the van would be perfect. We have so many routes planned in France and Spain so we’ll get out in ‘Mimi’ (van) as soon as safe to travel.
We have been so fortunate during this lockdown, have a lovely garden and two of our children are with us too, plus manage to get out everyday for a walk (just wish I had lost 6 kilos). I have read all,of your blogs so keep em coming as they are so very interesting. Let’s hope we are thru the worst, stay safe. Best wishes, Hazel Clarke
Joan says
Always look forward to reading your letters and glad you are both okay. Joan (Jeanne’s
Mum)