We left Italy with a last feast of home-cooked pork chops, potatoes and two veg, cooked in the port whilst waiting to board. There was some doubt as to whether the chops might have been horse meat as we brought them from a local market, but if they were, they did a good impression of very tasty pork.
The sixteen-hour crossing to Patra with Grimaldi Lines remained as ever with Grimaldi – Grim. A two-hour delay, an exclusive booked cabin that was already occupied, along with crew and passengers that look like they would slit your throats as soon as look at you. Disembarking was beyond scary as David and I squeezed our way through the juggernauts who already had their engines started ready to go to Buster who had been shoved in amongst them.
In honesty we should have stood our ground or spot and waited until the bulk of them had driven off, because one slight move forward and we would have been crushed! But hey-ho we live to tell the tale and we were soon on the road heading to a lovely campsite only some 90 minutes further south on the Peloponnese part of the Greek mainland. Cats in abundance, no-one worrying about checking in or passports or even taking any money and a lovely sea-front view as well. All good with our world or so we thought.
Next day the bikes were off the van ready to explore the nearby town, have our first Greek salad, perhaps some freshly cooked fish. Batteries in bikes, power switches on but for the newest bike nothing-no lights flashing on saying ready to go- nothing. So, we did all the usual stuff (well David did) put the battery in and out again, run it again on the charger, but still nothing, Betsy Bike was not playing ball after only her fourth outing. To say we were a bit peeved was an understatement and after phone calls back to the UK the only solution was to take it back to a Specialised bike dealer in the port that we had arrived in. So, the next day at relative crack of dawn we did the Encore back to Patras and the bike shop.
After many “never seen this before” from various bike people in Greece and HO in Holland, the answer was that a new battery would have to be shipped from Holland to Athens, which could take a while. Disheartened but impressed with the lovely bike man in Patras we headed off to Olympia-home of the first ever said games.
What a lovely place Olympia is and after parking up in the empty main town car park we had an explore. As per LP this place is heaving in the main tourist season but thankfully in mid-February, we were able to wander around and get a good feel for this small town. As it was a Friday a couple of late afternoon drinks were had, while we worked out our re-routing to take in Athens main town and to collect the battery whenever it arrived. Dinner was cooked in by me while David wandered around outside.
For no apparent reason I felt slightly ill at ease in our spot whilst cooking but after dinner we again, having the luxury of bars and nightlife very close had another wander. A significant purchase was made in a lovely arty, jewellery shop and we headed back for the night happily despite our bike misfortunes. The night then took a turn for us as just after locking the van we were bombarded with (as we now know) oranges hitting the windscreen, roof and side panels. Instinctively David flew out of Buster to witness three youths riding away shouting and jeering. Not knowing what to do exactly as there was no-one else local or otherwise about, we armed with a trusty golf umbrella and heavy torch hung outside by the van in case they returned. The night was obviously unsettled but thankfully there was no further occurrence and Buster despite his slightly orange splattered decoration was none the worse for wear.
Thankfully the bike, battery situation was resolved by the Athens people as they had a spare battery and could courier it to us at a more convenient spot. The best option given our direction of travel was a delightful island by the name of Spetses, so we are heading there within the week to collect the battery and also tick this island of our list. Thank you for Athens, Patra and UK Specialized bike people – although worryingly we have no idea what caused the problem.
As we write this blog with the sun setting into a beautiful orange, red hue we are sat on a campsite with again a front row seat and view of the beach and sea. Since the ‘orange troubles’ we spent a further two nights parking off grid taking in whilst travelling some amazing scenery, many olive groves, beautiful small villages just beginning to open their tourist eyes ready for the spring and the influx of visitors. We have benefited from this being able to get to and stop more easily than we might be able as the months progress, but it has not been untroubled.
Gialova is a small amazing pretty bay just outside the more historic harbour town of Pylos. We again were to off gird at both these places maybe spending a couple of nights in each. On the Saturday morning we congratulated ourselves for not parking in the original Park 4 Night spot as teams of lorries arrived at 7.30am and started tipping sand and waste on that patch of ground. Our congratulations were short lived when David took to his bike in search of a nearby golf club for ball markers to add to his collection. At the entrance to the unsurfaced olive grove-based parking spot a ditch was being dug with a JCB rendering us unable to get out and move on unless Buster turned into Evil Knievel and did a jump over it, not likely. The workman shrugged their shoulders when we tried to ask how long it would take. We just hoped that they wouldn’t be putting up a height restriction as well otherwise it might have been like the Eagles song-you can check out anytime, but you can never leave.
We eventually took the chance a few hours later and drove over the wet tarmac to head the few kilometres to Pylos. Pylos or Navarino as it was formerly known was decisive in the War of Independence with British, French and Russian fleets defeating Turkish, Egyptian &Tunisian fleets. Our parking spot here was in the harbour, which again is a fairly large unutilised area and we parked up with two other German vans. According to Park for Night, motorhomes had been moved on, mainly in spring and summer when as we could see from the photos on the site quite a few vans were parked up. As it was a Saturday and we were in a town we decided to eat out and what a wise choice that was – the taverna was excellent and we had a true feast there all for the princely sum of €45 avoiding any more Greek salads for the moment as we both seem to have been affected by the overindulgence of either cucumber or fresh tomatoes!. The night again was disruptive as not only were we three motorhomes parked up but other commercial vehicles and the night was a series of engines starting, doors slamming before the first set of church bells began to chime, That’s when we decided to head for the current campsite, the toilet now ready to be emptied (it’s definitely a sign of older age as we have noticed the toilet now needs emptying more often as obviously our bladders do!), and hopefully a less disruptive night’s sleep.
This is the joy of deciding where and how to stop and here in Greece even not it’s not the height of season parking off – grid is not as easy as we had hoped with no other amenities than camp sites or taking a chance. Wherever we are and whenever we take a chance, we do also respect the local’s community and certainly do assist the local economy always- why wouldn’t you,
The night is now closing, and we have had another near-death experience brought on by salmon. With more local stray cats than you can shake a stick at it was no wonder that our evening dinner of salmon became of upmost interest to them, with a whole string of them following me to the kitchen area as I took the skin off. I had no doubt one false move by me and I would have been on the floor suffocated whilst they dined out on the fish. I run hot foot back to the van, thankful for my recent Olympia training throwing the fish at David and taking cover in the van. The cats again waiting in prey at every angle as David attempted to cook the fish on the gas BBQ, working as a team to try and outwit him, but it was David’s dancing that saved the day as his nifty footwork fooled each of them.
We are hoping for a quiet night without any cat revenge but who knows what these fiendish characters will get up to next, but at least they can’t throw oranges.
So, the week was a first off’s for us in many ways- our first experience of bad behaviour from locals, our first mosquito as well- bloody big thing it was although completely dopey unlike the local cats and also our first BBQ.
Loving Greece…
Top Tips of the Week
Don’t succumb to hard selling Greek salesman who give you weak orange juice (I thought it was a local hooch) – we’re now long on toilet products. Actually, that’s not a bad thing!
Now in Greece remember to throw your loo paper in the bin not the toilet, saves for a lot of effort clearing the loo.
sylvia evans says
Hey guy, Sylv here,
All sounds somewhat event-heavy given your short time on the road!!
The Isle of Wight ferry from Southampton packs us in too but they do have an ethic of no idling (not that a lot pf people take any notice).
I love the wooden bikes, maybe lighter than our steel ones – are they actually for sale? I feel they wouldn’t (no pun intended) last on south american ripio or even Vejer tracks!
Lastly – have you got the iOverlander app? We used it in SA but its aimed at ‘van owners really.
Looking forward to next update. Have fun and enjoy those Greek salads…….
David says
Syl,
The bike were genuine and worked! Had 6 gears too.
But don’t think they would be up to your adventures.
The iOverland app is fantastic as it is the first that covers Turkey, Georgia and Azerbaijan. Have already found it useful here in Greece for water.
So where will your new full time house be?
David
John Salkeld says
Those chops are too small for horse – probably Shetland pony.
David says
More Donkey than pony, in fact lovely.
David
maggie bevis says
You’re at our favourite site, Thines… Our second home. Try to 3at some of Despina’s fantastic food. We will be there for easter! Can’t wait.
David says
Lovey people but not food while we were there but could have stayed here until she opened.
David
Gilda Baxter says
We might use this same ferry route to cross over into Greece, once we finish touring Italy. It is great to hear your eventful account. I am glad the orange throwing youths did not return to miss behave again.
David says
Gilda,
The ferry is fine just a little chaotic the price was good value too much cheaper than Ancona or Bari.
David
Agnes says
Good to read all about your adventures. Amazing! Coincidentally Phil and I got engaged on Spetses 37 years ago!
David says
Agnes,
It is a lovely island and the mainland side also had lots to offer. Love these querky little links that make the journey more interesting and fun for us.
Love to you all David
Sal says
You must go to Kastro Kyllini, beautiful beaches & no problem free camping at this time of the year. The village of Kastro is near the Port of Kyllini. Very unspoilt area. I know I have a home there, bought it in 2005 when I went travelling in my motorhome. It is very safe to travel in this area & most people are very friendly. Shame about Orangegate..kids they wouldnt come back too scared in case you went to the local village & complained then a big investigation by locals…they dont like that sort of behaviour. Enjoy yourselfs
David says
Sal,
It proved impossible to stay in Kastro but Porto Helli was lovely we also had a day on Spetses again magnificent.
David
Gisele Yoh says
Just found your blog, love Greece too! We were there in ‘16 doing our grand European tour, & crossed on the ‘Grim’aldi lines but in the opposite direction. Reading about your travels is bringing back so many happy memories. Happy travels!
David says
Gisele,
Lovely to receive your message, we are really enjoying Greece so different to the fly in fly out trips we have had before.
Hope we will hear from you again and when you start your next adventure we would love to hear about it.
David
Max says
Just came across you’re blog. Very interesting. Are you OK if I ask a few questions about your preparation?
Basically want to know about vehicle and breakdown insurance.
Max says
A technical question about ebike battery charging :
What size inverter/leisure battery bank/solar panel do you have and what it’s your ebike charging strategy, as in do you only charge while the engine is running or just using the leisure battery via an inverter?
Understand ebike batteries, being of such high capacity, have the potential to really suck all the reserves out of a leisure battery bank. Real life experience would be good to hear about.
Thanks.
David says
Hi there sorry for the delay, we have a 600w Pure Sine wave inverter in the van and it charges the two bike batteries. Now here is the rub as the van is not ours we can not add any extra panels to it. We have a 150 w Truma panel and it charges the two batteries we have without an issue.
But we have two NCC B class batteries and they are not up to the job charging the bike batteries. So if you want to charge bike batteries do it while moving as we have done. We also have been able to charge them on a sunny day and have enough charge for the lights at night.
If we were to buy the van at the end of this journey. we would replace the two leisure batteries with AGR and perhaps add an extra 140w panel.
The 600w inverter is perfect for us, but if you have the extra panel, you could use a 1000w, again you must use a Pure Sine wave inverter for charging bikes.
Moving on to insurance, on our last trip we used ADAC but they no longer offer cover to UK based people. As our Van is new Fiat cover is fine for this journey. We have been told that Comfort insurance is good and other friends swear by the Caravan and Motorhome club’s offer. But as we don’t own the van we don’t have to worry about that aspect.
Hope this helps. BTW our friends we travelled with though Turkey had a Lithium Ion setup, it was very impressive but a lot of money over £3k.
Regards
David
Max Harris says
David, thanks for getting back to me, much appreciated.
600W PSW inverter – yes
1x 150W panel – yes
1x 110Ah LB – see how we go but option of 2nd if needed.
Comfort seems the ‘go to’ insurance for extended / fulltime and breakdown.
Good Luck and have enjoyed your Blog and writing style thus far.
David says
Max we have 2 110Ah LB NCC B Class. I would recommend 2 A Class ones.
Best David