Mon 11/7/16: A lovely clear and bright start to the day, but not sure the same can be said for our neighbours across the estuary from us-Portugal, as they were celebrating well into the night with gun salutes and fireworks well into the early hours and good on them as well. So with the sun shining we jumped on our bikes and cycled up Monte de Santa Trega. Not an easy cycle and electric had to be used all the way but the views from the top where worth it all around, across Spain and over to Portugal. We had already decided that we were going into the main port area of O Guarda for fish and that’s where we headed after freewheeling back down the mountain. Choosing a restaurant is always difficult and to be fair to Lonely Planet they have seen us right quite a few times. On this occasion they hadn’t only given one choice and that was fairly expensive so we resorted to next option- Trip Advisor. Again you sometimes have to read between the lines and this time we oddly went for the number one choice in the town which didn’t have a port or sea view but was on a back street just behind. I think it was this that made us go for it, n
ot having prime position and plus the fact it had electronic doors that opened immediately when I was trying to stare in through the door leaving me looking straight in and them looking straight back at me. It was however an excellent decision and for me I had the most lovely fresh monkfish. David stood his ground on the meat front and had chicken in garlic which was equally as tasty. After, even though a Monday lunchtime a local liquor was offered and a first for the both of us- coriander. Very nice and a lovely digestive after the dinner. So despite O Guarda being an ugly duckling town the fish was excellent and the whole area well worth a visit
Tues 12/07/16: And so we continued along the coast, amazing green routes most of the way with lots of little towns and many many small sandy coves. Our next stop being again on the beach in a small town called Hio. The reason for here was the excellent review the small camp site got and also the fact that they offered a taxi and booking service to get to the ‘must see’ Islas Cies, where the main beach is rated by the Guardian as one of the best in the world. We
did a shop on route at good old Lidl, which we managed uneventfully and for dinner I made garlic prawns with just a hint of chilli moped up with some lovely crusty bread- very tasty indeed.
Wed 13/07/16: Ever the practical (!) we had even shopped for some picnic stuff to take to the island with us and so loaded down with our picnic rucksack and beach paraphernalia off we set on the boat. The crossing took about an hour and thankfully was smooth, we even had some dolphins following us for a short while before we hit the pure white sandy beaches of the island. The island has no vehicles allowed and you can only camp there in tents (pre Booked) so it is indeed a near unspoiled place.
Thurs 14/07/16: Onto another highly recommended fish and seafood place called O Grove. A small camping car place right on the beach was to be our home for 2 nights. During July and August the prices for campsites jump up considerably with it being peak season, so we are having to find different options otherwise our budget for these 2 months will be blown. This site has amazing location just minutes from another truly stunning white sand, blue sea beach. What it lacked on was space and getting on with the neighbours isn’t an option it’s a necessity. After setting up home again we cycled off to find our lunch in the main town of O Grove. Seafood heaven it was with nearly every form of crustacean staring out of the restaurant windows at us. David very kindly opted to share arroz bogavante with me- a dish always made for 2 like most rice dishes here. To say it was delicious would be an understatement –cheap it wasn’t but worth it all the same. So even with our cheap campsite the budget was
blown that day! Back at campsite the space was even more at a premium with vans parked right in front of us operating on a rack and stack basis waiting for people to leave!
Fri 15/07/16: With a lovely beach right in front of us and the sun shining very brightly we decided on a
stay at home day. Popping down to the beach for a walk when we felt like it and then just sitting by NiKi reading and writing. A simple and cheaper lunch was decided upon and we just had in a lovely beach bar an omelette, bocadillo and chips. Our night time nibble being some cheese and crackers, thus helping our waistlines and also the purse.
Sat 16/07/16: With operation rack and stack in play on site we were a bit concerned about getting out but amazingly we made it out from our spot in one swoop saying goodbye to our Spanish neighbours as we went. Have
to say one of the tightest spots we have stayed on but with the summer season in the north so short and the spot so good you couldn’t blame the owners for squeezing everyone in. Onto another cheap Aire at a place called Boira, stopping on the way at the capital of this wine area- a place called Cambados and all along the route were vines again predominantly for the production of a white called Albarino. Sold all over Spain and in the UK this slightly off dry white
is perfect match for fish and shell food and in this area it’s what you get as your house wine option. Unfortunately we didn’t manage to find any bodegas that were actually open on a Saturday and those that were weren’t motorhome friendly in terms of their parking. So we just had to opt for a couple of very locally produced bottles (unlabelled) brought along with our oranges and lemons. Again a cheap date for us food wise- spag bol, actually made the day before on our stay at home day. Simples…………….who says we can’t be spendthrift.
Sun 17/07/16: Another beautiful bright day and again last night fireworks going for what seemed an age. At the moment every weekend seems to be a fiesta of some kind and it was the tail end of one we caught as we cycled along to Ribeira –a fishing port at the end of the 3rd peninsula on this north western coast of Spain. A small market and lots of busy restaurants all showing off their finest fish and seafood accompanied by small street bands playing a mix of music including bagpipes. Galicia is a Celtic area and so this sound is not unusual here, not much paler skins locals- David apart from his height fits in really quite well along with him speaking the odd Celtic word. A lovely pork kebab tapa set us on our way back to camp to get ready to move onto to another pristine beach. A lovely oddity when we got back to NiKi given that we are very much in the minority here on site was that under the van 2 English novels had been left for us- how perfectly lovely and big thanks to the those who left them. We shall return the favour.
Now let me see –mussels and chips or a nice bit of fish for lunch